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donderdag 27 maart 2014

A Block Purse

I have made another easy, peasy project! Great gift for a sewing friend! This is what we will make, a block purse
Block Purse
I made myself this small block purse. In the picture it is wonky, because of all the supplies I already put in it! But I only have to grab this purse now and be on my way to my Bee, stitching my houses.

Let’s Start!

You’ll need: 
1 fabric 12”x 7.5” 
1 fabric 18”x 7.5”. 
Felt 1 (or flannel): 11”x 6” 
Felt 2: 2.75”x 5” 
Thin batting (or felt) 19”x 8.5” 
Larger scraps to make pockets 
Zipper 6.5” long (optional) 
2 D- rings (optional) 
Embellishments you like 
2 sets of poppers 
Twill tape 21” x 1” ( or double with smaller twill tape) 
Material to make a stitchery design or orphan block 
Finished size is 17.5”x 7.5”
You can do this either with my stitchery design (copy the drawing in the rectangle) or with some orphan block that is still left in your closet for who knows when! This is the time to take it out!

Make sure the finished size of your block is 5” x 6.5”. Add strips log cabin wise to your orphan block to get to this size. If you don’t want a strip cq. sashing around the stitchery block like I did, the finished size should be 7.5” x 6.25” (including seams).

Now cut a piece of fabric 12”x 7.5” This is the back and “folded in” part of the purse. I had to go wild and made it up from left over jellyrol strips, which I cut in half and sewed together alternating the colours. After that I cut squares 2.75 x 2.75” and made a rail fence pattern. But that is time consuming, so if you want it fast go for the single piece of nice fabric.

Add the front (this stitchery block or your orphan block) to this piece of fabric (join the 7.5” sides) and you have made the first part already, the outside of the purse! Cut a piece of thin batting (I used some thin felt) 19”x 8.5” and put your “just made outside part” on top of it. Quilt this piece, but do NOT add backing! Cut back the extra batting. The finished size of the front part should be 17.5”x 7.5”. Put aside.

clip_image004 clip_image006

Now we will make the inside part of the block purse. 

Cut a piece of fabric, coördinating with the front, 18”x 7.5”. I have cut a little bigger as the finished front part, as stitching the pockets on can take up a little space. Measure the things you like to store inside this purse and make pockets that will fit those tools and supplies easily. Do not make bulk seams, leave the side parts of pockets flat. We will make the raffling nicer later on. Think about the space needed to fold the purse at 1/3 and 2/3 of the total length and don’t sew pocket ends or felt on or near those creasing lines.


I added a big piece of thin felt to have the pieces of my blocks placed on (1), as they will stick to felt or use flannel. I added a tiny piece of felt to store my used needles (2) Behind that felt block part I made a bigger pocket to hold some projects in (3) and I liked a zipper pocket as well, but I made it with an extra backing so I can use the space behind that pocket to store pattern papers. I added the D rings so I can hang things on them like a scissor or needle case.

Stitch all pockets in place with a 1/8”seam, but with room for ¼” seam on the outside parts, as in the end you will add the binding at ¼”.

I liked making those pockets also out of the leftover strips of my old jellyroll, but it takes more time to do that. You can also take 2 pieces of fabric, sew right sides together (stitch only the top) and turn one of the fabrics to the back and stitch a binding wide down. One of the fabrics (that goes to the back and makes the binding strip) should be cut 0.5” longer as the other one. I usually cut it even 0.75”larger and cut back, so I never end up having just to little to reach the bottom of my pocket.

And I added some small “shoelaces”, made from fabric strips 1”x 10” each (2 sewn on the folding line at 1/3 of the inner space and 2 onto the edge at the right that folds inside) to be able to bind the folding part to the inside of the purse, so it won’t slip out when stored with goodies.

For the inner part you will use twill tape that reaches both sides of pockets next to each other on either side of a folding line. It will cover up all the raveling ends of fabric from the pockets and “shoe laces”. This way it is thinner than sewing a seam and fold back, that will make it all bulky and therefore difficult to fold the purse up, especially with all the goodies stored.

Now the inner part is ready too, it is time to join the two sections. Lay them on top of each other wrong sides together and stitch at 1/3 part on the wide of the purse and at 2/3 part of this purse. These will be the folding lines as well. I stitched my first folding line right after the front block and halfway the single piece of fabric on the outside. If you are not sure you can sew the binding on without having the inner part of the purse shift, sew at 1/8” from the outside to join the sections. After that do it again by sewing the binding on. I sewed the binding on with the inner part facing up, so I could see if I was sewing any lace together with the binding. Fold binding to front and stitch it down as usual. Keep the laces out of the way while you do!

Now store your goodies inside the purse and determine where you want to place the poppers. If you do this while the purse is empty, they might not reach each other when filled. Do bind the inner part with the laces before you decide where to sew the poppers.

clip_image018 clip_image016

For the stitchery design click HERE (go to the right corner and click on "download original") or email me at I will send it to you in a PDF file...


3D Fabric Folded Flowers

You need to make 3 sections for the runner. Keep in mind that the layout of the center section needs to be different. Use the picture of the runner below for color arrangements and block settings. Read the instructions entirely before you begin.
clip_image002One side part of a Folded Flowers 3D table runner top (14”x14”)
Use this layout picture as a guideline for the runner (14”x 42”)ff layout runnerThe yellow squares are in my pieced example white folded flowers, but they can be left out to make the on point square-line of white Folded Flowers (pattern that is created by multiple sections) more visible in the runner. The yellow sashings between the sections must be left out. They only serve the purpose of showing the separated sections in the runner. You can see clearly the difference in layout between the 2 side sections (which are the same) and the center section. If you like to make a longer runner add more sections to it, starting with a center section and a side section and alternate them [A-B-A[-B-A]]. Always end with an A side section! Each section is a nine patch in itself.

Supplies needed: 

Fabric wideness is 42” in this calculation. Multiply the amount of fabric per section you add. Add extra if you like to add a border. I recommend one small border at least (min 2” wide), as the tip of the flower petal will be outside its own square. If you like to make bigger blocks you need to double the wide and double the length of a single (not folded flower) square to get the size of the square for a folded flower (so a single sq. is 2” and a folded flower sq. is 4”).

One side section requires (you’ll need at least 2)

41 x 2” sq. dark purple (= 4”x 42”) 
20 x 2” sq. lilac (= 2” x 42”) 
20 x 4” sq. white (folded flowers units), including the optional 6 yellow squares (= 8” x 42”)

One center section requires

40 x 2” sq. dark purple (= 4” x 42”) 
16 x 2” sq. lilac (= 2” x 42”) 
25 x 4” sq. white squares, including the optional 8 yellow squares (= 12” x 42”)

Fabric for 2” wide border (10” x 42”) (add lengthwise borders 1st.) 

Standard sewing supplies. 
Optional a Clover finger presser.


1) Use fabric that has not been washed yet or spray some starch and iron the fabric dry. 
2) Beware of fraying! You can use fray check to prevent fabric to fray. Use the fray check after folding, as there is only a small amount of fabric that can fray on the edges (backside of the petals). Batiks work best in this patchwork style, as they make sharp creases. 
3) Make sure you cut straight squares!!!!! 
4) Sewing with a light grey thread will blend into the fabric when you use different colour.

For the folded flower units: 

1) Cut 5 squares of 4” for the flowers (small motif or solids, here it is a white solid). Make sure no old creases are visible in these pieces of fabric. 
2) Cut 4 squares of 2” of contrasting fabric for the background (here it is dark purple). These will not be folded and serve as “in between” fabrics. Use a good contrasting color, so the flowers stand out nicely.

For the “in between” units: 

1) Cut 5 squares of 2” per unit (here it is dark purple). 
2) Cut from a contrasting fabric 4 squares of 2” per unit (here it is lilac). 
One unit of nine patches should measure 5” when finished, including seam allowances, . 
One section should measure 14” square when finished, including seam allowances.

One side section A consist of: 

4 folded flower nine patch units sewn in this order: 
5 in between nine patch units sewn in this order:
One center section B consists of: 
5 folded flower nine patch units,
sewn in this order:  clip_image002[7] 
4 in between nine patch units sewn in this order:
In the center section the folded flower nine patch units come in the center and 4 corners, like this:
Use the runner picture above as a guideline for color arrangements and setting of the nine patch units. The white sq. are the ff 9 patch units here. 

How to make the 3D Fabric Flowers

1) Place the wrong side of the fabric up. Fold the square horizontally. Make a sharp crease line with your fingernail. (I used the iron for it or a wooden finger presser). Repeat this for the vertical folding line.

2) Open the fabric with the wrong side up. Fold one corner to the center of the two folding lines. Again, make a sharp crease line.
clip_image0063) Repeat step 2 for al the corners. Make sure the edges meat in the corners.clip_image002[11]4) Rotate the block. Make sure all the folded fabric remains in place! Bring the bottom edge entirely to the center. Now create a sharp horizontal fold line. And fold back again.clip_image004[10]5) Create a square in the centre of the block by rotating the block around and repeat step 4.clip_image006[5]6) Use the fold lines as guide lines and bring two sides simultaneously to the center of the block and shape an 'ear' in between. Sew together with small neat stitches at the point where the fabric meets. If you do this with yellow tread, this will form the heart of the flower. Do not cut the thread! 
7) Repeat step 6 and sew the base together with the same thread.clip_image0128) Pull the 4 triangles back to front. This forms the final block.
9) Iron this form firmly, so it will stay in good shape. 
If you're making a larger block or quilt, sew the patches together (making a nine patch unit) first and then continue to step 10. For the runner: step 10 is the last thing to do, so after quilting and binding!

10) After you completed the quilt, ‘turn the ears' from inside to outside and shape the petals. Make sure the petals are well formed (no fraying visible) and you can stitch the petals down with a tiny stitch to the background (just the top of a petal), but it is not needed at all times.clip_image018

Color settings can be:

clip_image020 clip_image022
In the left example the white squares are the folded flowers, like the top at the beginning (= 1 side section). In the right example the dark yellow, blue and purple squares represent the folded flowers. The color scheme is trip around the world.
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